Electrified

With the upgraded alternator I added some time ago, and the recent mini starter, not to mention the electric fan, I needed to clean up the wires. I'm using an Orbital battery, which is similar to the Optima but it's black to blend into a classic car engine bay a bit better. This battery has top posts and side posts.

I added Taylor battery terminal covers #20670 to clean up the top of the battery.

I also added some Monster Cable side terminal bolts. This allowed me to use them to install the starter, alternator, and electric fan wiring to the positive post. And an extra ground cable to the negative post. I had to cut the extra-long bolt a bit. If the item you are installing does not have a big draw this should be Ok. You wouldn't, however, use these side posts to install a winch for example.

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Have a Drink!

I've been messing around with things a bit (as I try to figure out how my intake manifold installation went awry—more on that later), so I delved into the fuel lines that connect the mechanical fuel pump to the QFT carb. I wanted to replace the hard line, various brass fittings, and the -8 carb fuel kit.

Although the old parts worked well enough, they looked a bit cobbled together, and the faded carb fuel kit leaked once in a while probably from being 7 or 8 years old. I think the hard line on the front of the engine seems like a good idea if you have a mechanical fan, or if the fuel line snakes around and through many pulleys and belts. Mine doesn't so I found some Russell and Edelbrock fuel parts featuring matching black anodizing, all in -6 AN sizing.

From the older Carter fuel pump I needed a Russell 660823 Black ProClassic 90 Degree Adapter Fitting (-6 AN and 1/4" NPT) to replace the larger 3/8" NPT fitting or elbow that came with the Edelbrock 81234 ProClassic Fuel Line Kit. You might not need the smaller elbow depending on your fuel pump. Then I needed a Russell 660463 Black ProClassic Straight Adapter Fitting (-6 AN and 3/8" NPT) to attach the line to the new Russell 641093 Dual Inlet Carburetor Kit (-6 AN with 1/8" NPT gauge plug for Holley 4150-style carb). This 641093 is advertised as not having a gauge plug in some stores and having one in others, mine does. I decided to add a fuel pressure gauge Auto Meter 2172 Autogage Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge (1/8" NPT).

The lines are a sufficient length, even with a taller-than-stock RPM Air Gap intake manifold. I didn't include an inline fuel filter, also black and from Russell, but maybe I will add it one day.

I used Permatex Thread Sealant 56521 on the NPT threads and spent about $75 on a pair of Aluminum fitting wrenches, and an adjustable one. I might have just taped up a regular wrench to handle tightening the anodized aluminum fittings, but my 2001 Bullitt has a full replacement -AN fuel system so I can use them there too. I think the black ProClassic lines look pretty good, and I might even be able to remove the carb fuel bowls with this style of "soft" carb fuel kit installed.





I should mention that regarding the Edelbrock 81234 ProClassic Fuel Line Kit, there seems to be a design change with the fitting that attaches the coupler to the braided line near the fuel pump. The larger fitting failed on mine when I installed it the second time, so after speaking with Edelbrock's Tech Line I returned it to Amazon. The smaller fitting in the image was sent to me as a replacement and appears to be the newer design and works fine. (Amazon doesn't seem to carry this line anymore, but other places do.)

Mount Up!

So I've noticed that the driver's side header fit tight around the shock tower area, and under hard acceleration, the shifter handle would rock back and forth in my hand left to right. The transmission mount seemed fine. Then I noticed a one inch scrape on the underside of the hood where the air cleaner wing nut touched the hood as the engine lifted and rocked back and forth. A visual inspection of the driver's side motor mount showed the rubber layer seemed to be broken. After removal from the car, the damage was more obvious.


Most people purchase the fully adjustable mounts on the market for these cars. I don't need full adjustability even though the car has a T5Z transmission installed. So I bought the Total Control Products mounts for a few bucks less. These are not as adjustable, but are also serviceable should the bushing wear out one day. I was impressed by their heft and quality of manufacturing. They even use 3 bolts to mount to the frame, using a previously unused but present factory hole for the third bolt.

They added very little extra noise, vibration, and harshness (barely more than a broken mount anyway.) The shifter handle and the engine (presumably) stay steady under hard acceleration. Particularly for a stroker motor, I'd have to say these heavy-duty motor mounts are mandatory items.

Odds and Ends: Part IV

Lots of various items done recently: new alternator and regulator trying to chase a charging issue. Might be the underdrive pulleys, but I'm going to add some grounds on the battery and the alternator to be sure. Painted the gold alternator fan black.

Replaced the crummy black-oxide bolts in the engine bay with the left-over zinc-plated ones I used on the body panels.

Also installed a new fuel sender since the one I installed already was bad out-of-the-box. Two tips on that: put the brass float in a cup of water for 10 seconds or so before installing the sender in the tank and look for bubbles to tell if there's a pinhole in the float. Otherwise the dash gauge will read empty the day after installation... And use some thick grease to hold the rubber gasket in place if the tank is upside down as you install the sender, otherwise it's a huge hassle.

Oh, also installed some LED reverse lights from Mustang Project. And bought their blue LED dash light kit, but haven't installed yet. (Update: I can't get the reverse lights to work, so I removed them...)

Lastly, I signed up for Hagerty insurance to make sure I'm covered if something happens.

It's Alive! (And It's Loud!)

After a 14-month hibernation, the beast was awakened. I hired Jim from Markus Mobile to stop by and spend a couple hours with me as we woke the car from its slumber. We reinstalled the MSD Ignition 8582 Pro-Billet Distributor since I had removed it without marking the rotor position a couple weeks ago (oops), threw in some fresh Autolite AR3924 Racing Spark Plugs, hooked up the electric choke, and set the temp on the electric fan. At first we were trying to find TDC to install the distributor, so the car was popping and exploding out the dumptubes and once out of the carb. When the car was running, Jim tweaked the Holley for a good idle. It was so loud, but sounded unreal. What a freakin' relief that was...

Engine Bay Overhaul

Taking a look at the engine bay, it was clear it could use some general cleaning and painting and sorting, which didn't bother me. (I enjoy detailing anyway.) I also replaced some various pieces such as the starter solenoid, regulator, windshield pump, and some hoses and hardware. I also removed some old stereo wiring for a stereo that wasn't there anymore. (The stock stereo was still there and worked when I hooked it up.)

Here's the (semi-) finished product. I'd do a few more bits in the next couple months (i.e., nickel plated header bolts, all engine wiring) before sending the car out to be painted. Funny that this photo was taken about 18 days after I received the car.... LOL, I was busy!





The engine already had Edelbrock aluminum heads and Air Gap intake with a Crower cam and roller rockers. Also an Edelbrock water pump, MSD ignition, Holley 4-barrel 670cfm carb, and JBA mid-length headers. And it's a 331 stroker with forged internals instead of the previous 289... I'll get it dynoed in 2008.