Buffing the Spots Away

This update tackles a problem that surfaced on my recently purchased 2008 Honda Pilot, but it should apply to any car. The windows, particularly the back windows with factory tint, were badly spotted. These spots, noticeable primarily in sunlight, didn't disappear when using some liquid products designed to remove various deposits. This led me to believe the spots were perhaps the result of acid rain.

Bar Keepers Friend and my old pal, the 6" orbital polisher.

I searched online and found plenty of advice including using extra fine steel wool (not worth the risk) to remove the spots. There were also some special glass polishers as well, but they were pricey for a product I'd seldom use. I decided to try Bar Keepers Friend (BKF) Liquid—not the powder—which I already had. It was recommended on the BKF website for this task.

I applied the BKF to a clean side window with my polisher and spent about 5 minutes slowly going over the glass. I did not treat the windshield, because I didn't want to get the BKF in all the microscopic chips. I also didn't do the side mirrors, since they might scratch more easily than the glass windows.

BEFORE: These spots wouldn't clean off with anything, or so I thought.

DURING: I spent a couple minutes on the task by this point and saw an improvement.

AFTER: I spent a few more minutes with the polisher and ended up with this.

Overall, this was an easy task and the glass looks great again.

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Now You See It, Now You Don't

So I had a chance to use a Kozak 1050 Auto Dry Wash Cloth, which I bought through Amazon the other day for the princely sum of about $5. This thing is as great as I remember it from back in the 1980's.

It wipes up dust and pollen quickly and safely and even reduces static on the surface of the paint (to prevent more dust and pollen from accumulating). It has a great nap that holds the light debris tight until you shake it out. Comes in a resealable bag that fits under the seat or in the glovebox. Good for about 50 wipe-downs and then can use it on wheels. Great for car shows or to avoid rewashing a car that just has dust on it.

The pic shows the grey cloth (new area on left, used area on right) with the resealable bag.



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Ah-choo!

It's been just a few days since detailing the Bullitt, and Raleigh is covered in tree pollen. At this point, the cars need another washing, but when they are clean I'll keep up with occasional dust and pollen between washings with a Kozak 1050 Auto Dry Wash Cloth.

I used these cloths back in the 1980s on my Mustang at the time (an '83 GT—with a body kit!). They worked great then, and I've been meaning to try them again.




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Eraserhead!

Since the Bullitt was used in the One Lap of America years ago, it was festooned with stickers of all shapes and sizes. Fortunately, most came off easily with some heat and 3M Adhesive Remover. There were a couple on the doors that required something a little extra, and some stickers on the aluminum wheels that were tough to remove as well. The sale of the car included an Eraser Pad (Pinstripe Eraser Pad).




I had never used one before and it seemed like I'd need an air compressor to power the thing. As it turned out, a simple cordless drill like this one -- Black & Decker CDC180ASB 18-volt Compact Drill with 20 Accessories -- works just fine. In fact, the drill spins about 1400 rpm and the eraser works fine at that slow speed.




I let the sticker warm up in the sun, but don't let it get so hot it starts to melt. Get a good grip on the drill when you start, because it will want to jump all over. Use multiple angles to find the best one for cutting the stickers down.




I cleaned the residue with the Adhesive Remover but some glaze or wax might work well too.



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Keeping It Clean: The Sequel

I gave the '66 the same treatment as the '06 this past weekend, but without the clay bar. I'd have to say that this is one shiny '66. Fortunately, the paint job had come out really good, so this just makes the paint look even better.




I used the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze and the Gold Class Wax, both applied with a fresh foam bonnet on my 6" orbital polisher, and buffed out by hand with microfiber towels. (On the '06 I applied the wax by hand instead.) I'm definitely using the orbital polisher to apply the glaze and wax from now on, much easier.




I don't see any swirls, so that's great.

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Keeping It Clean...

I spent a few hours this weekend cleaning my silver 2006 GT, in anticipation of completing a full detailing of the 2001 Bullitt when it arrives in a few weeks. I used some products that I've had on hand for sometime, and a couple newer ones. I think these items or ones like them would be great at cleaning and preserving paint on a newer vehicle.




I started with a car wash, in this case using an old (huge) bottle of Costco Zymol that I'm still using years after buying it. When the car was clean, I soaped up a new Zaino Bros clay bar, which I've had unused in the cabinet forever, and wiped the horizontal surfaces. (I'd use this bar next time if I buy from Amazon -- Meguiar's G1001 Smooth Surface Clay Bar.)

Then I rinsed and dried the car.

Next, I used a 6" orbital polisher (similar this one -- Black & Decker WP900 6-Inch Random Orbit Waxer/Polisher) that I had bought on clearance somewhere for $10 to apply some 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (3M Imperial Hand Glaze 39007). I used foam bonnets (Carrand 40409 Foam Bonnets) on the polisher, not cloth, to avoid swirls, and kept the surface wet with glaze as I was working.

I then removed the glaze, buffing lightly with some new microfiber cloths (Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber). I hadn't used microfiber before for detailing, but they worked just great.

When the glaze was removed, I locked in the shine and protected the paint with some Meguir's Gold Class wax (Meguiar's G-7016 Gold Class Clear Coat Wax Liquid) applied by hand, and removed it with a fresh microfiber cloth. (You can use the orbital polisher for applying the wax if preferred.)

I think the results look great, even with a lighter color like silver.







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Engine Bay Overhaul

Taking a look at the engine bay, it was clear it could use some general cleaning and painting and sorting, which didn't bother me. (I enjoy detailing anyway.) I also replaced some various pieces such as the starter solenoid, regulator, windshield pump, and some hoses and hardware. I also removed some old stereo wiring for a stereo that wasn't there anymore. (The stock stereo was still there and worked when I hooked it up.)

Here's the (semi-) finished product. I'd do a few more bits in the next couple months (i.e., nickel plated header bolts, all engine wiring) before sending the car out to be painted. Funny that this photo was taken about 18 days after I received the car.... LOL, I was busy!





The engine already had Edelbrock aluminum heads and Air Gap intake with a Crower cam and roller rockers. Also an Edelbrock water pump, MSD ignition, Holley 4-barrel 670cfm carb, and JBA mid-length headers. And it's a 331 stroker with forged internals instead of the previous 289... I'll get it dynoed in 2008.