I was able to wire the fat positive cable in the kit to the solenoid on the fender, along with other positive leads from misc items like my electric fan so it looks pretty clean. The alternator itself didn't quite fit in the intended space. The positive post on the back was almost touching the Edelbroack aluminum head... I took the alternator to a local alternator and starter shop and they re-clocked it for me by disassembling the unit and twisting the back half around. I didn't want the wires pointing up since that would be unsightly, so I had them point down. This caused the negative post to switch places with the positive almost touching the head, but that's Ok since it won't short out.
The electrical system now puts out 14.21v at idle without any electrical items running. When I turn on the headlights (they use a relay harness) the system drops to 14.20v. When the electric fan kicks on, the system drops to 13.89v and then immediately recovers to 14.19v. (Compare this to the weak 13.1v recovery I saw a few months ago with the 65amp alternator.)
This system uses a modified external voltage regulator, which looks stock but picks up the proper circuit, and uses the rest of the stock wiring behind the alternator. But I think (not sure) that the internal regulator on the back of the new alternator is operational instead. Also, I have the stock positive lead (and ground) hooked up to the back of the alternator, and my ammeter still works fine (so far!).
